KC3EF Mobile Equipmemt


Richard Rohrer
 

HI Bob,

My mobile station consist of an IC7100 transceiver feeding a 20 mtr hamstick antenna mounted on a taillight mount on the rear of the Town & Country mini-van.  I like the 7100 since the control head fits on the front cup holder and the body goes under the front seat.  Since control and audio goes thru the USB I don't need the Signallink like I did with the 7000 I use to have.  The 7100 also runs much cooler.  For a computer I use an Asus Zenbook 360, with 8 Gbyte memory and 237 Gbyle SSD HD. I like the SSD since it starts in a few seconds.  I use this as my main computer with two monitors at home and also mobile/portable.  It has a 10.5 inch touch screen and will work as a tablet.  I use Win10 with Flidigi for most work.  I use N1MM for RTTY contest and ACL for logging. 
--
Dick - KC3EF
070 - 747


Steve W3HF
 

Dick -

With all the mobile operation you do, you might consider getting a car charging adapter for it. I bought a generic one about 12 years ago, that had switchable voltage and about a dozen interchangeable connectors for the computer end of the cable. I recall it cost only about $20. You wouldn't have to be so careful about maintaining battery charge during the drives.

Thanks again for all the tries yesterday afternoon. I was seeing the stations in Florida (N7WE and KC3FL) and Jerry in Illinois, but never had any copy to my southwest, where you were.

Steve
W3HF


Richard Rohrer
 

Hi Steve,

That is a good suggestion, but our mini-van has a built-in 120vac inverter.  The xyl says I am too lazy to crawl in the back and hook up my power supply for the computer.  I guess she is right, hi hi. 

73
Dick - KC3EF


Bob Motyl KK6KMU
 

Dick,
Thanks for replying.  I just got a new laptop with similar specs.  Still working out the bugs.  I think I'm still getting RF to interfere with the computer.  Going to try different USB cable and some ferrite beads.  I use my ICOM IC7200. a hamstick antenna and a 30 AMP-HR battery.  Going to get a solar panel eventually to charge the battery.

Thanks again,
Bob KK6KMU


Richard Rohrer
 

Hi Bob, 

I found on this trip that I had more problems with RF in the computer than I have ever had.  Reduced the power to 50watts and that seemed to solve the problem.  When we return to MD I am going to experiment with the setup and see if I can find out a better solution.  Since running mobile I think with the less than optimum antenna the more power is better. 

From my experience I found that sometimes some small changes in cabling can cause problems. 

73
Dick - KC3EF 


Rick - N7WE
 

When doing the initial shakedown on my /P setup for the car (hamsticks on mag mount, center of the CRV roof) I tuned the hamsticks with a MFJ 259B.  But when I put 25W into it from the rig, I had enought RFI inside the car to cause the computer to go all wonky and the SWR up substantially.  Bought a Balun Designs Model 1110 - QRP 1:1 Isolation/Choke Balun 1-54 MHZ, SO-239 connectors in and out.  It was about $50 as I recall.  It is rated to 300W SSB even though it says QRP.  So it is easily good for 75W continous modes.  Put it in the coax about 12" from the base of the Mag Mount and RFI disappeared.  SWR also went back to the tuned level.  My conclusion...I had massive common mode on the coax without the isolation.  These are great little chokes for PSKers.  I used another on the EagleOne off the back of the motor home as motor homes have lots of circuits (like furnace blowers, smoke alarms, vent fans, etc.) that just love to suck up RFI and do strange things.  I'm told, but haven't verified, that common mode on the coax can mess with your radiation pattern too. Of course, YMMV but that was my experience.
Rick - N7WE
070 - #1602


Jerry N9AVY
 

Rick:

Funny you should mention smoke detectors. Worked with smoke detectors for 40+ years and they can be quirky.  Most of the home units are ionization type (little radioactive sticker is indicative). They are cheap to produce, hence the mass use.  Problem is they are high impedance and very susceptible to RFI... like Hi-Z microphones. Verified that with an Engineer friend back then.  

The solution has always been to replace ionization smoke detectors with photo electric ones which have low impedance front ends.    Have solved a lot of RFI problems for hams that way.
Photoelectric detectors are a bit more expensive, but it's worth it.

Jerry  n9avy



On Thursday, April 22, 2021, 07:40:31 PM CDT, Rick - N7WE <n7we1980@...> wrote:


When doing the initial shakedown on my /P setup for the car (hamsticks on mag mount, center of the CRV roof) I tuned the hamsticks with a MFJ 259B.  But when I put 25W into it from the rig, I had enought RFI inside the car to cause the computer to go all wonky and the SWR up substantially.  Bought a Balun Designs Model 1110 - QRP 1:1 Isolation/Choke Balun 1-54 MHZ, SO-239 connectors in and out.  It was about $50 as I recall.  It is rated to 300W SSB even though it says QRP.  So it is easily good for 75W continous modes.  Put it in the coax about 12" from the base of the Mag Mount and RFI disappeared.  SWR also went back to the tuned level.  My conclusion...I had massive common mode on the coax without the isolation.  These are great little chokes for PSKers.  I used another on the EagleOne off the back of the motor home as motor homes have lots of circuits (like furnace blowers, smoke alarms, vent fans, etc.) that just love to suck up RFI and do strange things.  I'm told, but haven't verified, that common mode on the coax can mess with your radiation pattern too. Of course, YMMV but that was my experience.
Rick - N7WE
070 - #1602